Once again this year, we plan to endure the
challenges we know lie in wait at busy air terminals and other obstacles
between Zion Canyon and our beloved New England , but by
touch-down, my mind will be on other things:
islands, light houses, lobster boats, back roads, old cemeteries, sugar
houses, old barns, farmers’ markets, Fall gardens and. . . stone walls. Each a chapter in a pantheon of personal
passions which have been part of my life; each something I grew up with, but
will never take for granted. Stone walls
are a good example.
In 1871 the U.S.
Department of Agriculture published a “Statistics of Fences In the United
States”. At that time, it noted that in
New England and New York State alone, there were 252,539 miles of stone walls,
enough to circle the globe ten times, and to build all the pyramids of Egypt
times one hundred ! It has been
calculated that such an effort would have required an army of 15,000 workers
243 years to accomplish. The “when”,
and “why” and “how” of that story would challenge far more than a single column
of newsprint; but let me give it a try.
The first colonial
settlers in New England gave little thought to long-term fences, since to begin
with, they were “new” to the whole ethic of private land ownership, and
generally farmed cleared land “in common” with their neighbors anyway. Early towns were usually about 5 - 6 square
miles, with a church, trade buildings
and residences at or near the center, and farmsteads on the outer fringes. What fencing they did do made use of
excavated tree roots and brush from newly-cleared forest growth.
What took them by
surprise was that as fast as they removed rocks and stones from fields, more
kept coming to the surface each time they plowed or cultivated – a consequence
of the freeze-thaw cycles of that glacier-formed region which still continues
two centuries later. At first, they
threw the stones into random piles where they merely accumulated. Of course, some were used in constructing
building foundations, chimneys and such.
The initial reluctance to lay out “boundaries” and property lines was
motivated in part by the need to maintain friendly relations with neighboring,
and mostly accommodating Native Americans whose concept in land-sharing was at
odds with the European idea of personal ownership. But newly-arriving Dutch and English settlers
brought with them the practice of surveying, fencing and improving land. Since timber was readily available, and
because trees needed to be removed anyway, split-rail fencing became a quick
and economical means of establishing property lines. As the desire to control the breeding of
livestock grew, so too did the need for fencing. In fact the maintenance
of fences and property lines became so important that each New
England town designated someone to fill the “office of fence viewer”, whose job
it was “to perambulate the bounds”.
As farmers continued to unearth more and more
field stones, it was convenient to toss them under the rail fences where they
wouldn’t interfere with other activities, and what’s more, wooden rails had a
short life in the harsh New England climate anyway. As the forests disappeared, and fire wood for
fuels became more of a factor with a typical family needing 30 – 40 cords a
year, a new era of stone wall-building took hold, reaching its apex in the
years -between 1775 and 1825. A key
factor came at the end of the 18th century with the sudden increase in
sheep-raising.
As stone-wall building became more of an art
than a mere necessary activity, a strange partnership between man and beast
came to the fore. Oxen had long proven
to be the strongest, most durable, and best adapted beast of burden to the hard
New England farm landscape. One man with
a “stone boat” and an Ox needed only a good hammer and a set of stone splitting
tools to lay up miles of straight plumb un-mortared walls and time-defying
corners each season.
Growing up with Vermont’s stone walls, I was at
first mystified by old walls built in a zig-zag pattern. There appeared no obvious reason behind such
architectural whimsy among a breed of Yankees noted for their
practicality. Why not simply build them
straight! It was only when I understood
the progression from hand-split rails to stone dry-walls, and tried to drive
butternut fence posts into that rocky soil myself that I understood: Those early farmers had elected not
to set vertical posts, but to overlay each stretch of rails across the ends of
the previous stretch at a necessary angle, thus creating a zig-zag fence. Then when they began to toss their
never-failing supply of each year’s stone harvest beneath the
ever-deteriorating lengths of wood, the pattern which would survive for tens of
unfolding generations was literally set-in-stone.
A modern hand-crafted dry wall preserving a legacy which lives on as an architectural gift left behind by ancient glaciers, moved and polished by centuries of time. Al Cooper photos.
I've always wondered how those stone walls came to be in New England. Our yard in New Hampshire didn't have a stone wall, but it was separated from our neighbors by stones.
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