By the very nature of our Republic,
America is an amazing gathering place of people and their native cultures. In
no other venue is this as true as it is in the food traditions they brought
with them, many of which have survived the passage not just of decades but of
generations. The very roots of human memory are tied inextricably to that place
on the world map where our progenitors lingered long enough to become part of
the soil and soul of the land and its bounty. This is very true of those who
were drawn to Pennsylvania and its’ “open arms” attitude and policies. Since
the previous columns explored the background of the larger story it seems only
natural to spend some time considering the culinary gifts those adventurers brought to our shores.
The settlers we have introduced came
largely from Switzerland, Alsace-Lorraine and Germany, having in common an
understanding of various dialects of Germanic origin, and most of the religious
communities studied the German bible and spoke a form of German in their homes.
The Amish and Mennonites used the term “English” to describe “outsiders” and
all things foreign or of questionable worth, so it follows that the accepted
lexicon was a reflection of all this. As we speak of their food favorites, we
will cite with italics the foods and menus expressed in what students of this
vernacular call Pennsylfaanisch. Then
too – as we also do – they exult in the use of whimsical “pet” words, such as
the word Paffefatzle (meaning
preacher’s f-rts) for small Christmas fritters, or bottelhinkel for a worn-out old hen ready for the stew pot.
A favorite grain among the Deutch is
Spelt (an ancient relative to wheat,) but known to the Amish and their
neighbors as Dinkel. (I store and
grind this old grain to make my own Dinkelbrod.)
They also use it in a thick soup; Dinkelsupp
mit Hickerness-Gnepp,or Spelt Soup with Hickory Nut Dumplings. The folkways
of these peoples are firmly grounded in a deep respect for the land and the
crops it produces and they try not to be wasteful or imprudent in their
practices. If, for instance, you were present at slaughtering time in the front
yard of a typical November farm, you would find that virtually every part of a
butchered pig has a use, from the jowls to the twisted tail, in products from
head cheese to pickled feet and a dozen kinds of sausage, smoked cuts and of
course, all that lard.
The Pennsylvania”Dutch” have long
been known for their precocious application of preserving techniques, and a
delicious offspring of that artistry reaches into the kitchen itself. One of my
own favorites is a slow-roasted Sauerbrode
or Braised Beef. In the old days, the Pennsylfaanisch folk made a special black
vinegar with dried cherries and molasses which was allowed to age over long
periods. Nowadays, I use about a quart of balsamic vinegar which, with dried
cherries and a half-cup of brown sugar added, I boil until it is reduced by
half. That rich syrupy sauce goes into an enameled Dutch oven the right size
for the 3-4-pound beef roast which sits on a trivet that keeps it over, but not
quite touching, the black liquid. I rub the meat with coarse sea salt and
ground pepper, place three or four garlic slices into slots in the roast, and
set the Dutch oven – covered tightly with aluminum foil, plus the cover - into
the center of a 350 ͦ oven. After one hour turn the temperature down to 300
ͦ. Roast until tender; about another 2-3
hours.
Remove and cover the roast with
aluminum foil. Move the sauce to a top burner, adding water and finishing the
dark gravy. I like to serve the beef slices with a side of sweet-and-sour red
cabbage (rodekohl) and garlic-mashed
potatoes.
Unlike traditional sauerbraten, this version is not marinated before cooking and is
served on very special
occasions in a Pennsylvania Deutch home. Al Cooper Photo
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